Double Your Closet Space

Unfortunately, many of you may know the hassles of digging through mountains of clothes to find your favorite tee shirt. If you are experiencing this, it’s time to take on that messy closet.

The following system is just four plywood boxes outfitted with shelf standards, closet rods, or drawers.

It’s designed for an 8-ft. wide closet with an 8-ft. ceiling, but it’ll work in any reach-in closet that’s at least 6-ft. wide if you adjust the shelf width between the boxes or change the box dimensions.

Build Your Own Storage System in a Weekend

Power Tools:
Brad nailer (preferred)
Veneer edge trimmer
Materials supply list:
Edge banding
Framing square

Time, money, and materials

You can complete this project in a weekend. Spend Saturday cutting the lumber, ironing on the edge banding and applying the finish. Use your Saturday date night to clean everything out of the closet. That leaves you Sunday to build and install the new system.

The entire system is built with birch plywood ($40 per sheet). The total cost, including the hardware for the drawers, shelves, and closet rods, was about $250 (see Materials List). You could use MDF ($30) or oak plywood ($40) instead of birch. Everything you need for this project is available at home centers.

Cut and prefinish the parts.

Start by cutting all the parts to size following this and the Cutting List…

The corner box sides are slightly narrower than 12 in., so you can cut off dings and dents and still cut four sides from a sheet of plywood.

You won’t be able to cut the shelves that fit between the boxes to length until the boxes are installed (the shelves need to be cut to fit), but you can rip plywood to 11-7/8 in. and cut the shelves to length later.

Once the parts are cut, apply edge banding (iron-on veneer) to all the edges that will be exposed after the boxes are assembled.

Build a jig to hold the parts upright. Place a part in the jig. Then cut the edge banding so it overhangs each end of the plywood by 1/2 in. Run an iron (on the cotton setting) slowly over the edge banding. Then press a scrap piece of wood over the edge banding to make sure it’s fully adhered. Trim the edges with a veneer edge trimmer ($10).

Lightly sand the wood and your closet rod with 120-grit sandpaper. Wipe away the dust with a tack cloth, then use a paint pad to apply  a coat of polyurethane ($6 per half pint) on everything except the drawer parts. This $2 pad will let you finish each part in about 20 seconds. Let the finish dry, then apply a second coat.

Attach the hardware

It’s easier to install the drawer slides and shelf  standards that go inside the boxes before you assemble the boxes. Use a framing square to draw reference lines on the drawer unit sides for your drawer slides. The slides are spaced 8 in. apart, centered 8-3/4 in. down from the top of the box. Keep the slides 3/4 in. from the front edge (this is where the drawer faces will go). Use a 7/64-in. self-centering drill bit ($9) to drill pilot holes and screw the slides into place.

You’ll need to have your wire basket now (they’re available at home centers). Attach the glides for the basket 3 in. below the drawer slides. If your basket is narrower than 22-1/2 in., screw a cleat to the box side so the basket will fit.
Now attach the shelf standards. You can cut them with a hacksaw, but an easier way is to use a metal blade in a jigsaw. Place two or more standards together so the numbers are oriented the same way and the standards are aligned at the ends. Tape the standards together where you’re going to make the cut, then gang-cut them with your jigsaw.

Screw the standards to the inside of the box sides, 1 in. from the edges. Keep the standards 3/4 in. from the top (that’s where the box tops go). Be sure the numbers on the standards are facing the same way when you install them – this ensures the shelves will be level.

Assemble the boxes

Use a brad nailer to tack the boxes together following Figure A and Photo 4.

If you don’t have a brad nailer, use clamps. Then screw the boxes together. We used 1-5/8-in. trim screws ($5 for a 1-lb. box) because the screw heads are small and unobtrusive (we left the screw heads exposed). Here are some tips for assembling the boxes:

– Attach the screw strips to the box tops first, then add one side, then the bottom shelf, and then the second side.

– Drill 1/8-in. pilot holes to prevent splitting. Stay 1 in. from edges.

– If your cuts are slightly off and the top, bottom and sides aren’t exactly the same width, align the front edges.

– the boxes will be slightly wobbly until they’re installed  in the closet so handle them with care.

– The middle bottom box has a back. Square the box with the back, then glue  and tack the back in place.

– After the corner boxes are assembled, screw shelf standards to the side that doesn’t abut the wall (it’s easier to install the standards before the boxes are installed).

Build the drawers

Cut the drawer sides and bottoms (see Cutting List). Assemble the side with glue and 1-in. screws. To square the drawers, set adjacent sides against a framing square that’s clamped to your work surface. Glue and tack the drawer bottom into place. Then set the drawer slides on the drawers, drill pilot holes and screw the slides into place.

Install the drawers in the box. Getting the drawer faces in their perfect position is tricky business. If the faces are even slightly off-center, the drawer won’t close properly. To align them, place double-sided tape over the drawer front. Starting with the top drawer, center the drawer face in the opening.

You should have about a 1/8-in. on both sides and the top. Press the face into the tape. Take out the drawer and clamp the face to the drawer to keep it stationary. Drive two 1-in. screws through the inside of the drawer into the face.

Hang the boxes in the closet

Now install the boxes. Start by drawing a level line in the closet, 11 in. down from the ceiling. This will give you just over 10 in. of storage space above the closet system after the top shelf is installed. Then mark the stud locations on the wall with tape.
Don’t assume your closet walls are plumb – they’re probably not. So you can’t just place a box in a corner without checking for alignment.

Hanging the boxes is a two-person job, so get a helper. Start with the corner boxes. Align the top of the box with your level line on the wall. Have your helper plumb the box with a level while you drive 2-1/2-in. screws through the screw strip into the wall at the stud locations. Attach the other corner box the same way.

Find the center of the wall, then make a mark 12 in. on one side  of the center mark. That’s where your shelf unit will go. Again, have your helper plumb the box while you align it with your marks and screw it into the wall.

Prop up the drawer unit on spacers so it’s tight against the shelf unit. Align the edges, then clamp the boxes and screw them together. Drive screws through the screw strip into the wall.

Then place the top shelf over the boxes. We could just barely fit our shelf into the closet to lift it into place. If your won’t fit, you’ll have to cut it and install it as two pieces. Make the cut near one end, over a corner box, so it’s not noticeable. Screw the shelf to the box tops with 1-1/4-in. screws.

Then attach shelf standards along the sides of the shelf and drawer units. Cut the adjustable shelves to length to fit between the corner boxes and the middle boxes. Finally, screw the closet rod flanges into place, cut the closet rod to size and install the rods.

Use common sense and safety first.

** Please call DJ’s Home Improvements if you would like a professional help you with this project. Call 516-775-8696, or visit to see some of projects we have completed. DJ’s Home Improvements is a design-build remodeling company licensed in Nassau and Suffolk counties of Long Island New York.

Please leave a comment if you like this post.

Completed Project Tours

Over the years, at DJ’s Home Improvements, we have completed so many amazing projects. Though we don’t always  get the chance to take photos/video of them to document the process and/or the beautiful outcomes, below are the lucky few. Click on any of the following videos or visit my company website at to see portfolio photos of these projects that have transformed the way our homeowners live and enjoy their home.


NARI EPA Classes, “Get The LEAD Out”…

… was the mantra in Saturday, January 9, 2010 at the NARI office in Melville (NY). On that day, NARI hosted its first Lead Safety for Renovation, Repair, and Painting certification class. Certification is mandatory for remodelers and certain related professions. That class was SOLD OUT.

In attendance were a combination of NARI members and non-members. The NARI office provided an ideal location with comfortable accommodations. A continental breakfast and a hearty lunch were served as well.

The class was very interactive, with many questions fielded by the instructor. There were many concerns shared by everyone present and the instructor provided us with some important facts about the dangers of lead as well as a good interpretation of the law. There was even a hands-on section with several instructors demonstrating and the students participating in many of the safe lead practices we will all be required to perform, come April of this year.

The new law takes effect in two months, and yet I have personally heard remodelers and related professionals say, “what new law?” I urge everyone who reads this to alert anyone who is affected by the law to get certified and have their company licensed.

Companies must be certified and licensed if they disrupt 6 sq. ft.  or more of a surface area of a home that was built prior to 1978. It involves any company – even subcontractors like plumbers and electricians. It is so important to know the law so you will know when the structure you are working in contains lead. Penalties are severe and lawsuits will undoubtedly be abundant.

If anyone is wondering about getting insurance for lead removal, the phrase I have been hearing is ‘very expensive’ if any coverage will be available at all. Again, the building industry has to carry the burden of yet another regulation. The only choice we have is to comply by being certified and licensed, and to train our employees in safe lead practices and then document, document, document everything that we do.

NARI is helping the remodeler in this area in two ways: NARI is partnering with an EPA certified training firm to conduct classes at the NARI office for individuals wanting to get certified, NARI is providing 3 additional classes. They will be held on March 27, April 3 and April 17. All three classes are on Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. The cost for the class for our members is $240. The non-member fee is $315. Payment must be received prior to the class dates to hold your spot.

Finally, the NARI will be conducting roundtable discussions with lead certified individuals only… both members and non-members are welcome. Subject of the roundtable will be “How are you implementing the new lead regulations in your company?”

This new EPA program is called the “Lead-Based Paint, Renovation, Repair and Painting Program” (RRP).

Below are some links: pubs/firmapp.pdf

(Reprinted from NARI Today, February 2010, Volume 13, Number 6, Page 12)

*Jerry Burdi is a Certified Remodeler and Certified Kitchen and Bath Remodeler, a member of NARI and NKBA, President of DJ’s Home Improvements, licensed in Nassau and Suffolk Counties, NY.

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How To Work With Glass Tile – Backsplash Application

Difficulty: Moderate to hard
It takes a few specialty tools and a lot of patience to set tile like a pro

Glass Backsplashphoto © 2008 Jason McArthur | more info (via: Wylio)










1 Mix thinset mortar, then trowel a thin skim coat onto the backsplash wall.

2 Smooth thinset with straight-edge trowel and wet sponge; let dry.

3 Lay out the 12 x 12-inch tile sheets on countertop.

4 Measure length and height of backsplash wall to determine tile layout.

5 Spread thinset onto wall with straight-edge trowel.

6 Press full tile sheet into the thinset.

7 Cut individual tiles from sheet to fit around electrical outlets.

8 Continue setting tile sheets across the backsplash wall.

9 Use undercut saw to trim window stool so tile fits behind the trim.

10 Use score-and-snap tile cutter to trim individual tiles to fit tightly around electrical outlet.

11 Spread thinset onto the back of individual tiles, and press to wall; use spacers to maintain consistent grout joints.

12 Use wet saw to trim tiles along the top of backsplash wall.

13 Once all of the tiles are installed, allow the thinset to cure.

14 Finish by using a rubber float to force grout into the spaces between the tiles; wipe off excess grout with a clean, wet sponge.

Use common sense and safety first.

** Please call DJ’s Home Improvements if you would like a professional help you with this project. Call 516-775-8696, or visit to see some of projects we have completed. DJ’s Home Improvements is a design-build remodeling company licensed in Nassau and Suffolk counties of Long Island New York.

Please leave a comment if you like this post.